Anurag Rudra
“My father was my role model, with whom I shared a very deep bond. Deuta was the person who instilled in me his ideals of humility and equality, deuta was the one who inspired me to foray into this field, and contribute to the rich cultural heritage of Asom, in whatever meagre way I can... deuta was...is my hero”. So began my interview, on a nostalgic note with Lakhimi Barua Bhuyan, well known jewellery designer and proprietor of Zangfai (In Asomiya, Zangfai refers to a traditional Asomiya ear-ring) her business venture, which deals in, and aims to promote and popularise ethnic Asomiya jewellery. When asked to describe her childhood, and how the environment at home had contributed in the making of a well-known personality in the cultural-fashion circuit, Lakhimi slipped into nostalgia again and continued: “My deuta was responsible for instilling in me the ideals of self-confidence, humility, determination and above all, a zeal to work ceaselessly to achieve what I wanted in life. As a kid, I was a very homely and demure child, and was interested from the very beginning in socio-cultural activities. You can say that the environment at home was extremely stimulating and encouraging, and was responsible for invoking in me the interest to work in the socio-cultural arena”.
Lakhimi Barua Bhuyan, daughter of well-known painter and artist Pranab Barua, recounted how her father, when he was not donning the garb of the prolific painter that he was, always took keen interest in encouraging his children –– his daughter and son –– in socio-cultural activities. She described how he always backed her, encouraged her to participate in a diverse range of pursuits and interests, including theatre, dance, painting, designing, etc. It was indeed this background which influenced her to take up jewellery designing, the love for which her father had cultivated in her during her formative years. Today Lakhimi Barua Bhuyan and her business enterprise Zangfai have become household names as far as ethnic and traditional Asomiya jewellery is concerned. She has indeed made a name for herself in designing and experimenting with traditional forms of jewellery, modifying them and innovating new designs to suit the tastes and preferences of the present day patrons. What she has achieved in the context of jewellery designing, an area of excellence you do not get to hear about every day, and that too, traditional Asomiya jewellery, is indeed remarkable. As she says, “My customers are drawn from all walks of life, with varying tastes. While youngsters and students prefer to go for those pieces which are a bit ‘modern’ and which they can pair up with their daily attire, others such as housewives or ladies generally seek the traditional, gorgeous pieces which they would prefer to present someone with, or maybe use themselves. Then once in a while, you also find people buying an extravagant piece of ethnic jewellery, sometimes with the intention of passing it down in the family. It’s a wonderful experience”.
Though born in Shillong, Lakhimi Barua Bhuyan grew up in Nagaon in a home which was always bustling with activity and humdrum. “Our house used to be filled with people all the time. I remember how deuta would interact with everyone politely and with a great deal of interest and warmth. Someone would drop in to show a poem that he’d written, someone to ask for a helping hand while others would stop by just to have a chat with deuta. This stimulating atmosphere at home greatly enhanced my interest in cultural matters and I developed a great love for the arts”. After passing her matriculation from Nagaon Mission Girls’ School, she graduated from Nagaon Girls’ College. Throughout her school and college life, Lakhimi Barua Bhuyan has been a keen participant in socio-cultural activities and cultivated a great deal of interest in the various creative avenues and scopes that were available to her. She also noted how she was a particularly observant child, one with a critical bent of mind, always pondering over the questions which were taxing the minds of others of her age. She narrated a particular incident that she vividly remembers: “Once, I came back from school and asked deuta about the Hindu-Muslim question that was the topic of discussion almost everywhere you turned your ear to. Deuta just looked at me, in his usual self, smiled and replied: ‘There is nothing called Hindu and Muslim...you are known for what you are, what you believe in, what you do and what you seek from your actions, your life’. I have held on to this piece of wisdom ever since”.
Her father was the person who basically inspired her to contribute and work in this sector. Back then, though she was interested in jewellery designing and working with traditional ethnic Asomiya jewellery, her first brush with serious work in this arena came after her father’s demise in February, 1992. “Prior to that I was of course interested in jewellery designing and its allied fields, no doubt about that...but it was after Deuta's demise that I seriously gave a serious thought to the matter and it was then that I decided to take the plunge. My friends and family always encouraged me, always made me take pride in my qualities and talents, but then, I didn’t take much notice of these compliments. It was only after deuta’s demise that I decided to carry out what deuta had ordained for me. Deuta always believed that each and every person was endowed with a gift. What he was required to do was to take notice, polish it, harness its potential and calibre and contribute to society, to culture in whatever way possible to him or her. I thought that it would be the best way to show my love for my beloved Deuta by following his vision and making his wishes, his dreams a reality.” Barely some time had passed after the unfortunate debacle, and Lakhimi Barua Bhuyan had already decided to take the plunge. Two months after the unfortunate demise of Pranab Barua, his resilient daughter Lakhimi had started to lend wings to her dreams. It was April, and she had already ventured on her eventful journey with Zangfai, a name which has by now become synonymous with modern-ethnic Asomiya jewellery. “My mother, Aroti Barua is a very practical lady, endowed with great foresight and wisdom. She firmly believes in what my Deuta would always say about being self-dependent. It was she who helped me set up the business. In the initial period, I started my operations from home, mainly among my friends, relations and acquaintances. It was in course of time that I made it a full-fledged affair and made it the name that it is today,” she said with a quiet smile when I grilled her about how the idea of promoting ethnic jewellery on a commercial basis materialised.
After giving the kick-start to her dream that it required, Lakhimi Barua Bhuyan, then Lakhimi Barua, tied the knot. In December that year, she got married to Joydeep Bhuyan, son of Dr. Manish Ch Bhuyan, who incidentally happens to be the first heart specialist from Asom. Speaking of her new life in her in-laws home, the new atmosphere and her subtle anxiety, she smiled and said: “I felt at home instantly. There was a lot of warmth in my new home. I took to it as a little bird to the wide, blue sky. My in-laws were very loving, cooperative and encouraging. Had it not been for them, I would not have been able to work wholeheartedly to fulfil my, nay, our dream. I am grateful for the love and the trust that they have showered on me all these years”. Speaking of her in-laws she said: “My mother-in-law shouldered great responsibilities to enable me to devote my full time in my venture. She was the one who took care of the kids, nursing them, nurturing them and bringing them up. My father-in-law made me believe in myself, and encouraged and supported me throughout this long journey”. And what about her husband? “Ohh! What can I say about him? He is a magnificent person, a gem of a person to say the truth... and he is devoid of all vices. My husband has supported and encouraged me in my endeavour with untiring love and faith. Even though he is not exactly very much into the artsy stuff, he has supported me keenly and I am proud to share my beautiful life with him.” They are blessed with two daughters –– Annanya and Akangsha, who are still in school. So how does she divide her time, entertaining her family as the loving mother and wife, and her gruelling schedule as an entrepreneur-designer? “Well, I don’t know really. I guess you have to adjust yourself to the need of the hour. And as far as I am concerned, I remain engaged with my business from 10:30 in the morning to 7:30 in the evening....when I’m not working, I try to entertain my family, to spend some quality time with them. I guess it’s all a part of my life.”
Coming back to business, she narrated how she kicked off her business venture, working day in and day out to take it to the level which it has achieved today. Indeed, it’s the culmination of determination and a gruelling zeal to transform one’s dreams beyond the virtual and imaginary plane, a task which very few of us manage to accomplish. “After starting my business, I got a warm response from my family, friends and well-wishers. Everyone was very enthusiastic and optimistic about my initiative...I got the pat in the back which I needed to take my dream further. Following the positive feedback which I received over a period of five years following the initiation of the business, I began to develop a better idea of the market for traditional Asomiya Jewellery. I became aware of the different strata of customers, from college goers to ladies and housewives, I began to develop a greater grasp, understanding their needs, what they came looking for, what they wanted. You know, it was a very enriching experience, getting to know so many people who shared your enthusiasm, who gave you their feedback, telling you what they wanted to see the next time they visited. Finally, I developed a clear perception of the market forces at play, and a definite picture of the different categories of patrons to whom I had to cater. Following this mindset, I basically divided my entire range into four parts to suit the needs and tastes of my customers. This was a decisive factor as it allowed me to showcase my entire range in terms of varying budgets, tastes, preferences etc...this made my work a lot easier”.
Lakhimi also believes in keeping warm, personal relations with her customers, beyond the scope of sales and purchases, trying to make them comfortable, ever-ready to receive their feedback and trying to cater to the needs of her customers. It’s something that has to be inculcated and followed, if one desires to make a name for oneself in the concerned trade. “See, as I said earlier, meeting people, listening to their feedback has always been a thrilling and I must add, a very enriching experience. It gives you the impetus to painstakingly strive to deliver. Personally, I ask all my customers not only to come and buy, but to visit again and again, tell me what they want to see on the shelves, what they would like to wear...and also tell me frankly what they don’t like. It’s a wonderful experience!” Her brainchild Zangfai, her business venture has indeed come a long way from its humble origins in her home to its present-day showroom situated at MRD Road, Silpukhuri, Guwahati. And when I say ‘long way’, I just don’t mean the commercial side. All these years she has seen the changes and shifts in customer tastes and preferences from heavy, traditional, ethnic jewellery to chic and cool ethnic stuff that is in vogue. She has held a number of exhibitions in different places, including one in NEDFI Haat a few years back. "In all these years, I have seen and understood the changes in tastes and demands. You know, different types of customers seek different types of jewellery and consequently, you end up having a huge array of items so unique in themselves, but still endowed with the traditional, ethnic touch.”
And speaking of culture and the present times, she chipped in enthusiastically: “Culture, I believe is something, you unconsciously, involuntarily carry around. Culture is manifested in your psyche, your subconscious. And I believe that being modern does not derive from doing, wearing the things which are ‘in’ and ‘out’. Culture is beyond the scope and influence of trends and crazes. Of course, culture has to move ahead with the times, it has to evolve...this applies to fashion, literature and yes, jewellery as well. I believe that being ‘modern’ comes from being able to carry in one’s personality one’s cultural legacy and the present times...simultaneously. Tradition and change go hand in hand, isn’t it?” I nod frantically, confused, thoughtful, true to my confused college-going self. And what about future plans? “Well, I plan to expand my business in the years to come, hope to enjoy the same response and warmth which I enjoyed all these years. You know, there came a stage when the demand for ethnic jewellery shrank a lot, forcing craftsmen to give up their pursuits temporarily. But thankfully, that’s history and nowadays the market is booming. We have got warm response not only from the Asomiya community, but also the non-Asomiya patrons and even NRI’s who wish to showcase the cultural heritage of Asom abroad. In a way, you can say that I have got a mission to promote the diverse and rich cultural heritage of Asom. I would just like to convey the message that whatever sills you have, you must use it to contribute to society, to culture… but contribute in our own backyard first. We’ve got a lot of talented people over here, if everyone does that, we can work wonders.”
The air is chilly outside, and the evening birds retreat to their cosy nests. The air is heavy with the smell of sweet rain. It’s time I wind up and leave Lakhimi baideu alone, to contine her mission to promote and showcase the rich heritage of Asom through her one-of-a-kind endeavour.
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